We are now in Samarkand. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia. Human activity here dates from the late Paleolithic era though there is no evidence of exactly when Samarkand was founded. It was most likely founded between the 8th and 7th centuries BC. Samarkand prospered from its location on the Silk Road between China and the Mediterranean. Samarkand was Tamerlane’s (Timur’s) capital city. The city also had some very low periods during its existence.

Registan Square is Samarkand’s central square, going back to ancient times. “Registan” means sand place as the square was covered with sand, long before any buildings were built. Back then, it was the gathering place for people to meet, trade, announce the Khan’s orders, hold celebrations and festivals, collect the army leaving for war, and public executions. The area right around the square had many trade rows where farmers and artists sold their goods. All main roads in Samarkand led to the Registan where it was always noisy and lively. Registan was also always the center of social life for the people of Samarkand.

There are three Madrassahs (teaching and learning place) on Registan Square, erected by two rulers at different times:

Ulugh Beg Madrassah, built 1417 – 1420, which is on the left facing the square.

Sher-Dor Madrassah, built 1619 – 1636, on the right side facing the square.

Tilya-Kori Madrassah, built 1646 – 1660, in the center between the other two.

Registan Square, looking north, is in the first photo. The oldest madrassah is on the left, the next oldest on the right, and the newest is straight ahead – not that it matters as they are all very old.

Vicky is in front of the Tilya-Kori Madrassah in the second photo. The tile work was really excellent.

The Sher-Dor Madrassah is in the third and fourth photos. The fourth is a close-up of the entrance. You can see that the tile is not just a repeating pattern, but that almost each piece of tile had to be made for a specific position.

How do we account for a couple of tourists, having never been there before, showing up to Registan Square and dressing to perfectly match the madrassah’s cupolas?